An invisible zipper is a type of zipper that is used in garments where a smooth, clean finish is desired. Invisible zippers are commonly used in dresses, skirts, and form-fitting blouses. Sewing an invisible zipper may seem daunting, but with this step-by-step guide, you’ll be a pro in no time!
Step One: Preparing the Fabric
Before you begin sewing your invisible zipper, you will need to prepare the fabric. If your fabric is especially delicate or has a nap (a directional pile), it is best to interface the area where the zipper will be sewn. This will stabilize the fabric and prevent it from distorting when the zipper is inserted.
To interface the fabric, cut a strip of interfacing that is slightly wider than the seam allowance and fuse it to the wrong side of the fabric following the manufacturer’s instructions. Once the interfacing has been fused to the fabric, press the seam allowance open with an iron.
Step Two: Sewing the Zipper Foot On to the Machine
In order to sew an invisible zipper correctly, you will need to attach a special presser foot onto your sewing machine.
This presser foot has a metal bar that runs along the center, which helps to guide the fabric evenly as you sew. Most sewing machines come with a zipper foot attachment, but if yours did not come with one, they can be purchased at most craft stores.
Once you have attached the presser foot to your machine, set your stitch length to 3mm-4mm. A longer stitch length will make it easier to remove if you make a mistake while sewing. Another tip for setting up your machine is to lower your presser foot pressure. This will help prevent puckering and distortion of the fabric as you sew.
If your machine has a needle down/stop function, engage this function now. This will ensure that your needle stays in place when you stop sewing, which makes it easier to line up correctly when you start sewing again.
Now that your machine is all set up, let’s move on to sewing !
Step Three: Sewing The Zipper In Place
Start by stitching along one side of the seam allowance using a regular straight stitch. When you get close to the end of the seam allowance (but not too close to the edge of the fabric), backstitch several times and then raise your presser foot. Do not cut your thread yet !
Now take your invisible zipper and line up one end with this stitched seam allowance so that teeth are flush with raw edge of fabric.
The coil should be facing towards you. Lower your presser foot and continue stitching until you reach about 1″ (2.5 cm) from end of teeth—again, making sure not to sew too close to coil.
Backstitch several times at this 1″ (2.5 cm) mark like before and then raise presser foot without cutting thread. Now it’s time to insert the other end of zipper into place ! Just like before, line teeth of zipper up with raw edge of opposite side of seam allowance this time making sure coil is facing away from you and lower presser foot.
Continue stitching until teeth are about 1″ (2cm) from end of coil on this side. Raise presser foot without cutting thread and trim away excess thread. You’re almost done but first we need to sew over those pesky coils ! Fold each side of fabric over so they are sandwiching teeth portion of zipper in between layers and then pin in place. Using a regular straight stitch on both sides , top stitch through all layers about ⅛” (3 mm) from edge.
Trim away any excess thread and give yourself a pat on the back you’ve just learned how do sew an invisible zipper ! Finish constructing garment as directed in pattern or tutorial.With these helpful tips in mind ,you’ll be highly skilled invisible zipper sewer in no time !